Small Munsterlander

General information:
(Information taken mainly from an article in GUN DOG MAGAZINE (March/April 1985) The Small MUNSTERLANDER Pointer by Paul Jensen)

• Elegant, strong dog, with much self-confidence.
• The Small Muensterlaender Pointer is a versatile hunting dog that combines intelligence, desire, and fidelity, enabling him to quickly adapt to the varied terrain or quarry and his master's preferred hunting method.
• As a hunting dog it is an irreplaceable, tireless companion and aid; in the house it is the family's good-natured, but incorruptible, watch dog.
• Typical characteristics of the dog are diligent ingenuity during field work; solid pointing capacity; meticulous tracking ability; great endurance - even under difficult climatic conditions; a great love for retrieving and enthusiasm for water work; tenacity and tonguing on the track; and easy handling. They understand readily and consolidate their hunting experience very quickly. At the same time, they sense the weakness of an incompetent handler and sometimes take considerable advantage of it. The SMP has a great ability to express his emotions. If one is willing to understand him, half the training is done. The principle must be, however, that in spite of all good will of the dog, the training has to be constant. The dog must never be punished severely, nor his fine spirit broken.
• As one of the smallest of the gun dogs, the small Muensterlaender pointer is tough, strongly built, full of nobility, and an extremely versatile hunting dog. The coat should be smooth and there should be feathers on the tail. The dog uses his tail as an instrument of expression, and this signaling ability is highly useful in its work. The hair on the ears should be slightly wavy. The ears show, during running, beautiful movements. Too much or too curly hair is a disadvantage during the hunt and is considered a defect.

Germany

The small Munsterlander is one of our oldest gun dog breeds, with origins dating back to the 13th or 14th centuries. Falconers in the heaths and wetlands of northern Germany used a small, longhaired pointing dog to hunt birds and hares for market. By the 1800s, however, the breed had all but vanished.
Near the turn of this century, the breed was rediscovered in Lower Saxony by a writer named Edmund Lons, whose writing re-popularized the breed with German hunters.
Mr. Lons called the small Munsterlander the Heidewachtel. That was in 1921. He had known of this breed and the great hunting abilities of these dogs from his early days as a game warden. This old Heidewachtel had been bred entirely by private families with the intent of maintaining pure line-breeding and avoiding any mixture with other, similar breeds.
Mr. Lons found that two lines had been line-bred in the area around Muenster in Germany. They were called "Dorsten" (after the village) and "Heitman" (after their main breeder). Originally, these dogs came from the same lineage; there is only a few hours' travel between the locations of the breeders. However, no crossbreeding apparently took place for many years and the two lines showed distinctive traits. After Wolilberg, a game warden who had the Dorsten line, discovered the Heitman line, crossbreeding began. Any litter produced today may show one line or the other's traits.
The ancestors to the Heidewachtel were the dogs of meat hunters, people for whom hunting was both an avocation and a source of income. The hunter's main game was the hares in the moors, which paid for the hunting rights and provided a tidy profit. Every hare was counted as money, with one hare equaling a day's pay. Obviously, it was of great importance to these "professional" hunters that they bag as many hares as possible. They needed a dog that ensured no cripples were left in the fields.
The Heidewachtel fitted these hunters' bill perfectly. Their ability to find crippled game, their intense point, and excellent retrieving ability were combined in these small, local, long-haired dogs. The majority of these dogs disappeared when the price of hunting rights increased and city dwellers started competing for the spreads. Hunting changed from being an avocation or vocation for some to being a hobby for the rich.
This breed is descended from dogs seen in paintings from the 13th and 14th centuries. The English author, Dudley, mentions a "pointing spaniel" in 1555. The writer, Sebitz, used a phrase "wachtel-dog" in 1580 for a dog that had a good search and an intense point.
A breeder by the name of Bruning had so much improved the hunting abilities of his dogs that, by the middle 1860s, the Muensterlaender had become famous in hunting circles. Male dogs were demanding higher prices than had ever been heard of when they were sold to the Dutch court.
During the following 20 to 30 years, the breed lost its popularity and, indeed, may have been threatened with near extinction. Serious breeding did not start until the 1890s and the breed was not accepted as independent until 1912, when it acquired a standard. Edmund Lons was the pioneer who brought the breed into contemporary times. He searched tirelessly for an acceptable base for breeding In his search he met the teacher, Heitman (in Burgsteinfurt), who had been line breeding for 40 years and could trace his line back an additional 70 years. Lons found other specimens on remote farms, where farmers had kept the line pure by keeping only one bitch for breeding and culling the rest of the females. Others were discovered, the pets and hunting partners of village priests and teachers that were nicknamed "the little Magisters."
Lons wrote that the farmers kept their dogs around them in the house, which was not usual at that time. It may well have been because the farmers realized that not only was it comforting to them to have the beautiful dogs in the house, but they also got much better performance from them as hunting dogs because of the animal/human relationships that developed in the house.
Breeders and owners of the breed, organized in 1912 in the breed club Verein fur Kleine Muensterland Vorstehhunde (Heidewachtell) .The club's name combined the title by which we know the dog today and the title by which they were known before they became an independent breed.
The breed club's name was changed in 1949 to Verbend fur Klein Muenstedaender Vorstehhunde when breeding - minimal, of course, during World War 11 - started again.
Export of the breed to other European countries had been minimal up to the 1950s. A few dogs were imported and bred in Denmark in the latter part of the fifties, but great interest was not shown until the early to mid sixties. In Germany today the Muensterlaender Club boasts more than 500 members and the dog has consistently ranked 12th to 16th in popularity during the past 10 years.

Your Dogs' coat and correct grooming and bathing:

Bringing home your puppy:Now it is time to prepare for your puppies homecoming.We will try to cover everything to make you and your puppy's first days easy and comfortable ones. Lets first go through food and water DISHES.There are many different types,ones for small dogs,ones for large dogs and ones for long eared breeds and short eared breeds.Be sure to look at your many options when making your choice,and get the ones that are most functional for your needs.

They will then most likely remain bowls and not additional new TOYS. Next we will need to have some toys ready.They will need them for TEETHING and EXERCISE as well as old fashion playing.The selection of toys today is enormous.We recommend choosing several of different textures to begin with. A HARD TOY will distract your puppy from chewing hard things around your home. Second,he should have a SOFT TOY ,something he can chew up with out getting in trouble When he has his own fuzzy to carry around he won't have to borrow from you.Also an ACTION TOY that would involve you would be a wise choice.There are tug of war types or a fetching toy.There are many choices,choose one you can use together.When you bring your puppy home you should have a proper sized or adjustable COLLAR and a LEASH.First put the collar on the puppy and let him get used to it.There may be some attempt by the puppy to remove it ex: trying to scratch it off...

Gradually he will become accustomed to wearing it.Once used to the COLLAR we can now try the LEASH.At first your attempts to walk the puppy should be done in a fun place.Like outside,where his natural instinct to explore things will distract him from the feel of the leash.Shortly he will be accustomed to the leash and then to being walked.

Puppies need a safe-play area in the home to adjust to his new surroundings. This also aids in HOUSEBREAKING.We usually suggest using a GATE to confine the pup in the kitchen or other room.Therefore he can be confined and safe,but able to eat,drink and play with toys.Also to use papers if left alone for long periods of time.

A KENNEL is highly recommended to use as your puppy's own safe place as well as a bed.He will look upon the kennel as his own den,this will greatly assist in the housebreaking.Being a den animal by nature dogs and puppies do not like to soil their den.However water should not be given several hours before being crated for over two hours.Your puppy should have the time to eliminate before it is crated for the night.There should be no food in the crate,only in the play area or other parts of the house.However BEDDING and toys are definitely allowed in the CRATE.This is your puppies special area and he should enjoy it.

Other items that you should have on hand for the new puppy are good puppy SHAMPOO ,CONDITIONER> if necessary and proper BRUSHES and COMBS needed for your breed.As discussed in the grooming section, SLICKERS,RAKES and STEEL COMBS are very useful. You are now ready for your puppy,and probably a little more aware of the responsibility you are undertaking.One I believe is well worth all of your effort.Being well prepared to bring the new puppy home can now be a fun and learning experience.

Socializing and Training of your puppy:All puppies should be well socialized at a very young age.They should interact with as many types of people,of all ages as possible.It is good to take your puppy to places where there is a lot of activity,such as,parks,schoolyards,and any local ball games.Also,in the same way expose your new puppy to other dogs of all ages.You will control these new situations by always having the puppy on a LEAD. Different enviorments and situations show the puppy that the world is a much bigger place than home.All of this is usually well accepted by a puppy.He is young and curious and will most likely thoroughly enjoy all these new adventures. Though the puppy thinks they are adventures and fun times, they are much more.Introducing all these new things from people,dogs,and new situations to different enviorments while your puppy is young will assist you in owning a well adjusted dog in the long run. Any puppy that is not well socialized young, can pose a challenge to the human trying to socialize the dog at an older age.Bad habits will have been picked up and it will be three or four times the work for you to correct and reteach.You do not want an antisocial,poorly adjusted dog,so start early with your puppy.Both you and your dog will benefit and enjoy each other much more. In addition to being socialized your puppy needs to be house broken and taught basic puppy obedience.These goals can be reached with at home training by you, up to date BOOK assistance,or professional obedience lessons. For at-home puppy obedience there are a few basic rules.First work with your puppy for short periods of time as your puppy has a very short attention span. Usually ten minute lessons at first are the longest that should be used.The key is to train often and every day but only for a short time. The five basic commands are come,sit,down, stay and heel.Come is by far the most important.Only to be taught when you have the puppy on a LEAD at first,leaving no room for error.It is not necessary to teach these commands in any special order,choose one and get the basics down on that command before bringing in a second command. Verbal praise should be given lavishly each and every time your puppy pleases you.It is very important your puppy feels that praise for they thrive on pleasing the people they love the most.Also it is of great importance that each lesson end on a successful note,with praise.If your puppy looks like he is getting tired or bored,stop the lesson before he starts making mistakes because his attention wanders. Always remember that puppy lessons should be fun for both you and your puppy. TREATS are a running second after lavish praise from their master.Soft small TREATS work best because you do not want them to take long to eat them.However use them sparingly so your puppy does not tire of them or worse,mind only on the expectation of a treat.For further in depth information on training check out dog and puppy TRAINING BOOKS,or enroll in a local puppy kindergarten class with your new puppy.

The Official Standard:

Temperament:

Potential health risks that your breed may be prone to:

Proper nutrition for puppies:

Puppies are bundles of energy, mischievous and lots of love. They are not unlike human babies.

Puppies need protein that is easily absorbed and used,as opposed to ones that serve little or no purpose. Please feel free to call the 800 number on any bag of high quality puppy food, they will be more than happy to further inform you.

Puppies have small stomachs and if fed a lesser quality food they will be full before their nutritional needs are met. However if the same puppy is fed a high quality PUPPY FOOD his requirements will be met by consuming less food.

One very important part of a puppy's diet is a proper balance of calcium and phosphorus. This ratio if unbalanced has been linked with skeletal deformations.

A level of calcium that is too high can cause a puppies growth rate to exceed the norm, possibly to a danger level. It has been known to add to his chances of hip dysplasia or other skeletal diseases.

A puppy food must be palatable and must contain enough protein for tissue and muscle growth.

Easily converted quality fat must be contained in the PUPPY FOOD in order to supply sufficient energy these will also produce skin and a coat that will do the breed justice.

Finally some helpful hints to find the right PUPPY FOOD as easily as it really is:

1. Feed a PUPPY FOOD that is high in nutrients.
2. Do not supplement the same nutritious food.
3. Feed to obtain a moderate growth rate.
4. If abnormal growth rate is observed (too thin-too heavy) then adjust food levels
5. Do not attempt to grow or raise your puppy too rapidly
6. Please feel free to use the 800 numbers on all puppy food packages, they are all working towards the same goals.
   

Adult dogs are what your bundle of energy have grown into. They are still mischievous and have lots of love to give.

Now though, they are slightly more refined and most certainly more devoted to their owners and families.Though stubborn at times, yet friendly,they most likely would protect their people with their lives. Assuming that your treasured friend has been fed a nutritious food throughout its youth now is time for a change. He/She should move on now to a nutritious ADULT DOG FOOD, as it is formulated for an adult.You will find that some dietary requirements will change.

A medium size dog over the age of nine months requires a slightly lower protein level. Quality ADULT DOG FOODS have been formulated to give your dog just that. Your dogs muscles and tissues are still developing, however not at the same rate. Therefore requiring less protein. It is very important that the protein used is both easily consumed and utilized. Rice,egg,cottage cheese, poultry,lamb and small amounts of red meat.

Quality ADULT DOG FOOD will use the products that are mentioned above. They have also done studies on the ratio of protein and amino acids and the ratio of calcium and phosphorous. Dogs will greatly benefit from such studies.

Since ADULT DOG FOOD contains the necessary supplements,Further ones are not needed. In addition to protein you should be aware that quality food contains proper amounts of easily converted amino acids and starches. Both when converted supply the energy your dog requires. Some helpful hints for assisting your adult dog to live a long and full life.

1. Feed a high quality ADULT DOG FOOD.
2. Make sure he/she gets plenty of exercise to properly develop his/her muscle tone.
3. Have your dog seen regularly by the veterinarian of your choice
4. Remember, you are your dogs best friend

Your dog has reached or is approaching his golden years.Naturally you want to keep him as healthy and fit as possible. Dogs mature at much different rates.Large dogs mature sooner than smaller breeds of dogs. At roughly six years of age,a large or giant breed of dog is at or approaching his senior years. That is true for a small breed of dog around the age of eight or nine years.

As your dog approaches his senior years,you will most likely be concerned about dietary changes.You will be noticing quite a few changes in him. One change is the tendency to become overweight.His metabolism is not the same as it used to be.Now is a good time to check out and try a quality SENIOR DOG FOOD.This may be all that is necessary. However there are other signs to watch for.One is that there can be changes in his urination and thirst levels.If SENIOR DOG FOOD does not correct the problem please see the veterinarian of your choice.

Changes in thirst and urination will most likely alter his housebreaking habits,and probably not in a pleasant way.This will require more patience on your part,as the dog by himself has no solution.

Almost always there will be changes in their eating habits. The most common "and dangerous" is weight gain,This occurs because of the slower metabolism rate or a food too high in calories.Most often it is a combination of both.Using a SENIOR DOG FOOD formulated especially for him can do wonders.

On the lighter side,a sign of aging is when your dog starts to go gray.That's right,just like us,however this usually occurs around the muzzle and the ears. One last thing to remember is to exercise your dog even though he is not as young anymore. However, be sure not to over exert them.

Thanks to advances in veterinary medicine, the quality of pet food and better educated owners, dogs are living longer these days. This also means that they are likely to suffer some of the same age-related diseases that affect people, including periodontal disease, abscesses, pulpitis (an infection of the inside of the tooth), and osteomyelitis (a bone infection that can affect the jaw). Breeds with short noses, such as Pugs and Bulldogs, can have trouble with teeth. Dachshunds, tend to have small mouths and large teeth.

Here are some preventative way's to eliminate or delay future dental problems. There are now dog TOOTH PASTE and DOG TOOTH BRUSHES available. If this sounds unusual there are also dog toys produced from DENTAL FLOSS MATERIAL. RAWHIDE and most DOG BISCUITS would also be of some assistants. There are many manufactuerers of HARD CHEW TOYS or DOG TREATS that will assist in removing plaque and believe it or not now new to the market SPECIAL FORMULATED DOG FOOD designed to remove plaque as the dog chews on the food.

So as you can see it keeps getting easier to avoid dental problems your dog may develop as he/she reaches in there senior life stage.

TRAINING YOUR DOG:

One way to make your dog a good neighbor is through obedience training. A poorly behaved dog is a problem for everyone. Nothing is more frustrating than attempting to corral a dog that will not "come" when you call. A well trained dog is not only a pleasure to own, he is a goodwill ambassador for the entire canine community. A well-behaved dog is the result of the dog's owner being willing to work with the dog regularly in a systematic manner. Obedience classes are available in most communities. Time spent training your dog is time well spent.

Special nutrition for the over weight pet:

Special nutrition during pregnancy and nursing:

Proper dental care for your dog:

Selecting a stud:

Breeding your bitch:

Whelping the litter:

Traveling with your pet:

Related books of interest:

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